Leila Gourmet

Gratins & Bakes

This is the North African oven at work on a weeknight. A gratin here does not mean potatoes and cream. It means a layered dish built on spiced beef or seafood, bound with bechamel, and finished under enough cheese to blister and brown. Potato, green bean, zucchini, cabbage roll, shrimp: the format repeats deliberately, but the character changes completely with the vegetable underneath, and each recipe explains what shifts and why. Alongside them sit the other one-dish bakes, including a Tunisian tajine that is nothing like the Moroccan pot of the same name. Nearly all can be assembled ahead and baked later, which is most of the reason they exist.

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