Leila Gourmet

Salad

Salad in Arabic cooking is not a side of leaves. It is chopped small and dressed sharply, or it is cooked down until it sits closer to a dip than a bowl of greens. Both kinds are here. Tabbouleh and fattoush belong to the first, parsley-heavy and lemon-heavy, built to cut through grilled meat and fried pastry. Zaalouk belongs to the second, a Moroccan cooked salad of eggplant and tomato reduced until jammy and eaten warm or cold with bread. What they share is acidity, and the fact that they improve after half an hour on the counter. Dress the raw ones close to the table, though, or the bread and herbs go limp.

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