Leila Gourmet

Drinks

Two drinks carry more ceremony than anything else on an Arabic table, and both are here. Moroccan mint tea is less a recipe than a method: gunpowder green tea, a generous fistful of spearmint, sugar added early rather than at the table, and the long pour from a height that gives the glass its foam. Arabic coffee, qahwa, goes the other way, pale and barely sweet and heavy with cardamom, poured in small measures and refilled until you tilt the cup. In both, the making and the serving are hard to separate. The recipes cover the brew, and the notes cover the rest.

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